Viajes Mexicanos: El Distrito Federal

Mexico City, until recently the Distrito Federal and now the State of the City of Mexico, is (by some measures) the largest city in the world, the total metropolitan area containing roughly 25 million inhabitants. 

The pollution is not so bad as it once was and I had the good fortune to visit when traffic was at its lightest.  Still, on the flight out you find yourself through a brown bubble, one of Sherlock Holmes' s classic pea-soupers.

On the whole the city has a very New York-y vibe. Huge, bustling, dirty, and teeming with culture. They even have a fake Empire State Building (the Torre Latino):

 

Others sites to see:

Chapultepec Park and Castle

Mexico is the home of the only Royal Palace on the American continent, Chapultepec Castle. Home to the ill-fated Emperor Maximilian, it sits atop a large hill in the middle of the city's central park.

Anthropology Museum

Mexico City is full of museums. The largest (probably) is the Anthropology Museum, which attempts to encapsulate all of Mexico's indigenous history. Of which there is a lot, and much of it is marvelously preserved:

 

 La Casa Azul

It really is blue.

 

Despite the plaque, Frida and Diego never lived there together. Their relationship was somewhat, ah, fraught. Probably for the best they lived apart.

Murals

The muralismo movement is justly famous, with Diego Rivera and Orozco as prominent examples.  This is is Man, Creator of the of the Universe. It depicts: 

 Alebrijes

Brightly colored fantastical folk-animals, these guys can range from larger than life:

 

 to small enough to fit in your hand. They were actually invented by an artist named Pedro Linares, who conceived of them during a hallucination brought about by illness.

 

There is, of course, much more.

The Ugly American

Just in case you were thinking of finding love abroad:

How do you get this job, anyway?

One of the more common questions asked of diplomats is: how do you even become a diplomat?

The process is not as myserious as many seem to think. In short, there are two ways:

1. Be appointed by the President,

2. Take the Foreign Service Exam.

Option 1 is more straightforward, though of course you first have to be friends with the president and/or have contributed large amounts of money to his campaign. It also subjects you to months of grandstanding questions by Congresspeople who don't know or care about the issues involved and merely wish to embarrass or obstruct the Administration in whatever way they can.

Option 2 is somewhat more time-consuming. The Foreign Service test is in 3 parts: the written test, the PNQ, and the Oral Assessment.

The written portion is very similar to the SATs. Multiple-choice general knowledge test followed by an English language assessment capped off by an essay.

The PNQ is a series of short essays in which the candidate describes various times in his/her life they displayed certain key qualities of a foreign service office (leadership, integrity etc). This is done at home and is submitted online.

The last, the Oral Assessment, takes place (usually) in Washington DC and is further divided into three parts There is an interview in which you are asked a serious of questions about your life and experiences, then presented with a series of hypothetical situations to gauge your ability to think on your feet. This is followed by a group exercise with other candidates, which is designed to observe how well you interact with others. Finally there is a Case Management exercise, in which you are handed a binder of background info and asked to resolve a sticky logistical problem.

After all this, you are released to wander for a few hours while your score is tabulated.  Usually a score of 5.25 (out of 7) is the minimum passing score.

If you did well enough, you are given a provisional job letter and the background investigation begins. Once they have determined you are physically, mentally, and morally capable of SERVING YOUR COUNTRY in a highly sought after and privileged position.

THEN, you get placed on the Register - essentially a waiting list while you bide your time until a new position becomes available. Diplomats are hired in 'classes' of between 50-100 people. They usually hire about 4-5 classes a year.

At last, you get your offer letter and scramble to consolidate your life and move to DC. Then, the journey begins...

Comida Tapatia: Chilaquiles

Chilaquiles are a standard dish in Guadalajara, and almost every Mexican restaurant will have them on the menu.

Chilaquiles are corn tortillas cut into triangles and fried. They are then topped with green salsa, red salsa, or mole. This is simmered until the tortillas soften, and often garnished with cheese or cream.

To make it a more substantial meal, some form of protein - usually refried beans, eggs, chicken, or steak - is mixed in.

Maybe not the healthiest way to start your, but you can't deny how delicious it is.

Why Join the Foreign Service? Part IV

Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness.

- Mark Twain

Trolling Houses

Years ago, during one of my overseas sojourns, I read a magazine article which was devoted to interviews with the spouses (in practice, the wives) of local prominent expats - diplomats and business leaders, mainly. This article was surely meant to be sympathetic, but the wives themselves managed to confirm every negative stereotype you might have about people in their situation. These women were, without exception, spoiled, arrogant, unreasonable, and proudly ignorant, while their every complaint was tinged with racism and condescension towards the 'locals'.

As you might expect, the Foreign Service generally attracts people who are open-minded, adaptable, and relish new experiences rather than dwelling on hardship. So where are the Ugly Americans to be found?

Well it turns out they mostly hang out on a Facebook group called Trailing Houses.*

Look upon its posts, ye rational, and despair. Complaints about the free luxury housing (only two guest bedrooms!). Whining over the lack of Trader Joe's in Namibia. Demands that the State Department cater to their every whim and desire, from providing a car (and driver!) for all spouses to having an on-site veterinarian for the family pets.

This doesn't even begin to cover the airing of personal dirty laundry, the thinly-veiled racism, and the thousands upon thousands of posts which consist of nothing but questions that could easily have been answered with a three-minute google search

Mostly, though, the group acts as an endless source of validation. Any whine of self-pity is instantly approved and reinforced by dozens of do-nothing brats.

I suppose this is selection bias. Happy, well-adjusted, or stoic people don't spend a great deal of time kvetching on the internet. Still, it's sad to see people who would be miserable in any and all situations.

*The name is a pun on the old, pre-PC term for the husbands and wives of foreign service officers, 'trailing spouses'.

Viajes Mexicanos: Tequila

Yes, Tequila is a place! Like Cognac or Champagne. Only agave spirit which comes from Tequila can be labelled as such; everything else is mezcal.

Tequila, of course, is distilled from a blue-grey variety of cactus:

 Traditional tequila is made from agave harvested by hand, which is incredibly tiring work to be performing six hours a day in the desert sun.

Mexicans generally turn down their noses at the American style of drinking tequila (with lime and salt) and won't go near the brands that sell best among the gringos. Good tequila is meant to be appreciated, the same as any fine scotch or brandy.

There are generally five grades of tequila:

Plata/Oro (Silver or Gold) - Unaged. The tequila that has been bottled immediately or aged for less than two months in a neutral container.

Why have I put these two in the same category? Because they are the same thing! Gold tequila, as it is frequently sold in the US, does not exist. It is simply silver tequila that has been colored.

Reposado (rested) - Aged between two months and a year in an oak barrel.

Anejo (aged) - Stored for at least one year in an oaken barrel. Usually gold in color.

Extra anejo - Stored in oak barrels for at least three years. This is a fairly new concept, and opinion is divided over whether extra anejo tequila actually tastes better or is simply more expensive.

I still prefer a good scotch, but tequila is a fine accompaniment to seafood or anything spicy.

Tequila itself is a quaint little town which bases most of its economy on tourism and the sale of tequila (and other liquors). As one woman proudly told me, "We make the best tequila in the world here!" Yes, also the only tequila...

Still, it's charming enough: