Every day I encounter examples of law-breaking, mostly immigration-related. But that is not the only way illegality is a problem in Mexico. Distrust of the government runs deep, and the casual economy rivals the formal economy in size and scope. Traffic violations are rampant. Violence skyrocketed as a result of the drug war. I could go on.
BUT, that doesn't mean that Mexican society is impolite. Far from it! Meetings between friends and colleagues - even with only a day's absence - require an exchange of pleasantries and greetings. A Mexican friend of mine blushed scarlet when I suggested we sit at a restaurant that was only just opening. A movie clerk stared daggers at me when I cut the rope line - even though no one else was in it.
What does all this mean? That the letter, not the spirit, of courtesy is what matters. Someone who would think nothing of not paying their taxes, sneaking across the border, or cheating on their spouse would rather die than run into an old friend without inquiring after his family.
The problems this creates are obvious. By putting such excessive stress on politeness and the avoidance of giving offense, it becomes harder to challenge the real problems of society. Jorge Castenada, the former Foreign Minister, notes the difficulty election observers have in Mexico. Even when fraud is obvious, local watchdogs are reluctant to say anything, as this might cause a scene.
As an American who is used to being brusque, this remains one of my persistent challenges in adapting to and navigating Mexican culture.
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