Comida Tapatia: Posole

 Every culture, it seems, has their own version of the ultimate comfort food - chicken soup. And usually several. There's just something serenely reassuring about it, the warm protein warding off illnesses and troubles of every kind.

Well, the local version is called posole, or pozole. Made with chicken or pork, broth, and hominy - treated corn kernels.

Posole can be made with red sauce, green sauce, or neither.

The usual Mexican accoutrements - lime, avocado, radish, shredded lettuce, tostados, chili etc.can also be added to taste.

Highly recommended.

So Now What?

Despite all the hoopla about sweeping changes to the US-Mexico relationship, these things don't happen overnight. Among other things, the economic ties are so

Simply in terms of visas, there are a few roadblocks to 'stopping all the Mexicans':

- Most illegal immigrants don't cross the border covertly at all. They simply overstay their visas.

- Visa and immigration policy is set by Congress. Visa policy - at least as it relates to qualifying for a tourist visa - is essentially uniform around the world.

- Consular decisions are non-reviewable. They cannot be overturned by anyone. Of course, someone could always manually issue or deny a visa, but that's not a practical course of action for millions of visas.

The Foreign Service on Screen: Por Mis Pistoles

Cantinflas is a beloved character in Mexican culture. Born Mario Moreno, this Mexican comic actor created Cantinflas as a fast-talking man of the people who could glib his way into or out of any situation. In his heyday he was known as the 'Charlie Chaplin of Mexico.'

In one of his more memorable scenes, the lovable Cantinflas has to cross the border into the US. Oh, how little things have changed:

Excursion Tour: Antigua, Guatemala

As marvelous as Mexico is, it's not the only place to visit.

A mere 2 1/2 hour flight away is Antigua, the relentlessly charming former capital of Guatemala.  Formerly known as Santiago, it was destroyed by a series of earthquakes and the government decided to move about an hour down the road and construct what is now Guatemala City.

Now, Antigua is a UNESCO heritage site and a beautifully restored colonial jewel of a city.  It has fine restaurants, cobblestoned streets, churches, plazas, and a scenic overlook on a hill called Cerro de la Cruz:

Highly recommended.

Can it be....?

If only.

To Yell with Mexico

 Despite a common misconception, Cinco de Mayo is not Mexican Independence Day. That would be September 16, anniversary of 'The Cry of Dolores', the announcement of the Mexican independence revolution against Spain.

The Cry ('El Grito') was delivered in the town of Dolores, Guanajuato, by a Catholic priest named Miguel Hidalgo de Costilla. Although, no historian is exactly sure what Hidalgo said as no records were kept.

To commemorate this historic event, at around 11PM the night before Mexicans gather in their local plazas and yell patriotic things. Viva Mexico! Viva la Republica! Viva independencia! are popular.  There are fireworks and a fair amount of drinking, like all good national festivals,

Guide to Guadalajara: La Catedral

 The Cathedral of the Assumption of Our Lady - or, more simply the Guadalajara Cathedral - is the symbol and centerpiece of the city. It is depicted on innumerable postcards, paintings, tourist advertisements, and even appears in outline on the city's taxicabs.

Built in the Spanish Renaissance style, the cathedral has existed in various forms since 1541. The larger structure was completed in 1618 but was heavily damaged by an earthquake in the early 19th century. Famed architect Manuel Gomez Ibarra was hired for the rebuilding and created the cathedral as we know it today.

The basilica easily dominates the skyline of the Centro Historico, acting as a convenient nexus or landmark for the surrounding historic buildings. The interior is highly ornate and the surrounding courtyards are a pleasant place to contemplate life and the Eternal.

Do your best to dodge the priests spraying passers-by with holy water on your way in.

Guide to Guadalajara: San Juan de Dios

What city would be complete without its bustling marketplace?

This, the largest indoor market in the Americas, comprises three stories selling practically anything you could need - food, clothing, art, souvenirs, pets, household goods, all in dizzying profusion.

It put me ever so slightly in mind of Ben Thanh market in Vietnam, although more obviously geared toward an American tourist market, although still with plenty of locals to keep it authentic.

Beware, however - bargaining is expected, and an unwary gringo with limited Spanish may find himself taken for a ride.

Tequila vs. Mescal

 Both are national spirits of Mexico. Both are made from the agave plant. Technically speaking, tequila is a kind of mescal. BUT:

Tequila

Only made from the blue agave plant.

Can only be called 'tequila' if it comes from Jalisco, or a few designated zones in other Mexican states.

Is cooked in an oven. Tends to taste smoother and less distinctive.

Mescal

Can be made from any kind of agave.
 
 Cooked in below-ground pits. This gives mescal it's smokey flavor.

Will occasionally have a 'worm' (actually a butterfly larva) in the bottle. This is mainly a marketing gimmick and does not improve the taste.


I prefer mescal myself. It has a richer taste and is more distinctive.

Viajes Mexicanos: Los Altos de Jalisco

Los Altos ('The Highlands') is a geographic region in the western part of Jalisco state.  Beyond it's obvious elevated status, it is known for three things:

1. Producing tequila, being one of the premier tequila-making places in the country (after Tequila itself, of course).

2. Beautiful women. Though of course beauty is in the eye of the beholder. This reputation probably stems from the very strong European influence on the region, generally resulting in people who are taller and fairer than the Mexican average.

3. Religiosity.  Los Altos was by some measures the epicenter of the Cristero rebellion, the revolt against the government's anti-clerical policies in the mid 1920s.  Remnants of this can be seen in the many churches dotting the landscape and the occasional monument to a martyr or saint from that time.

Generally speaking Los Altos offers mild weather, fine views, and a decent number of historical sites and haciendas, and so is a popular tourist spot for those going slightly off the beaten path. If they every get reliable internet service the place could really take off.

Why Join the Foreign Service? Part V

“Life is either a daring adventure or nothing.”

– Helen Keller

The Deadly Mexican Formality

Every day I encounter examples of law-breaking, mostly immigration-related. But that is not the only way illegality is a problem in Mexico. Distrust of the government runs deep, and the casual economy rivals the formal economy in size and scope. Traffic violations are rampant. Violence skyrocketed as a result of the drug war. I could go on.

BUT, that doesn't mean that Mexican society is impolite. Far from it! Meetings between friends and colleagues - even with only a day's absence - require an exchange of pleasantries and greetings. A Mexican friend of mine blushed scarlet when I suggested we sit at a restaurant that was only just opening. A movie clerk stared daggers at me when I cut the rope line - even though no one else was in it.

What does all this mean? That the letter, not the spirit, of courtesy is what matters. Someone who would think nothing of not paying their taxes, sneaking across the border, or cheating on their spouse would rather die than run into an old friend without inquiring after his family. 

The problems this creates are obvious. By putting such excessive stress on politeness and the avoidance of giving offense, it becomes harder to challenge the real problems of society. Jorge Castenada, the former Foreign Minister, notes the difficulty election observers have in Mexico.  Even when fraud is obvious, local watchdogs are reluctant to say anything, as this might cause a scene.

As an American who is used to being brusque, this remains one of my persistent challenges in adapting to and navigating Mexican culture.

Next Stop on the Trans-Siberian

  

Vladivostok, Russia!

Situated on picturesque Golden Horn Bay, Vladivostok is a smallish (600,000) city known as the 'San Francisco of Russia' due to it's hills and spot on the bay. And it is where I will be living starting in 2018.

Now this is a REAL Foreign Service adventure.

Comida Tapatia: Torta Ahogada

Another of Guadalajara's signature foods is the torta ahogada (drowned sandwich) which is a....sandwich, half-submerged in salsa, usually of the picante tomato variety.

Certainly tastes good, I have to say that I am not won over. I mean, how are you supposed to eat this thing?  I don't think I'm being overly fussy; you're literally eating a sandwich out of a bowl of soup, usually with your hands. There's messy and there's inconveniently so.

I get it, OK? I do. Tortas are good. Spicy tomato sauce is good. But when you mix'em together, you're not necessarily going to get Reese's Peanut Butter Cups, you know?

A Gap Year

I am still about two weeks about from learning my next post. This is not unusual, although this year's bidding season has been highly unorthodox.

You see, the State Department usually hands out posts at least partially on the basis of 'equity'. People who served in difficult, dangerous spots get nice spots on the next go-around as a form of compensation. Makes sense right?

Well, here's the catch. Consular Affairs is facing a huge staffing shortfall in the coming years as a result of having too much visa demand and too few entry level officers. They COULD hire more people, but that would require authorization from Congress, and....yeah.

So, in addition to a number of stopgap programs to allow non-FSOs to adjudicate visas, CA has decided to designate certain positions as 'high priority'. These will get filled before anything else does.

Those with low equity (the Parises and Torontos of the world) will not be affected, but those coming from danger spots who were hoping for something modern and cushy may be in for a nasty shock.

Heard (and Overheard) On the Visa Line

Officer: OK ma'am, where do...wait, your case was already refused today.

Applicant: Oh no, that must've been my twin sister!

Officer: Why do you want a visa?
Applicant: To cross the border

Officer: How are you going to pay for your trip?
Applicant: With dollars
Officer: OK, let's start over...

Officer:Where are you going to travel?
Applicant: To the United States.

Officer: What is your job?
Applicant: My job is to work.

Officer: sir, I see you were arrested 3 times for cocaine, domestic violence, and a hit and run.
Applicant: no....that wasn't me.
Officer: It's your fingerprints, and your photo, and your name.
Applicant: I don't remember that.

Officer: Sir, have you ever traveled to the United States?
Applicant: No.
Officer: It says here you were deported in 2004.
Applicant: Oh, does that count?

Officer: What is your job?
Applicant: I am a secretary.
Officer: And how much do you earn in a month?
Applicant: 50,000 pesos.
Officer: That's more than a doctor or lawyer would make.
Applicant: Yes, I'm very good at my job.

I could go on....

Where Next?

Our bid list is LIVE, folks!

Strange to think I've barely been here half a year and we're already deciding where to go next.

Unlike the first time, we won't have to bid on ever open post - just our Top 30. Stills seems pretty broad.

There are hundreds of jobs on this list, spanning every part of the world. Here goes nothin'...

Don't Thinko de Mayo

Every year on May 5, millions of Americans down margaritas and wear oversized sombreros. But do they have any idea why they do it?

Isn't it Mexican Independence Day?

Nope. That's September 16.

Cinco de Mayo commemorates the Battle of Puebla, May 5 1862. Mexico's war of independence had incurred massive foreign debts, most notably to the major European powers. France, Spain and Britain formed an alliance and invaded when Mexico refused to follow the payment schedule.

The French army marched on Puebla, expecting an easy victory due to their greater numbers and superior weapons. The Mexican army drove them off, inspiring the nation and standing as a symbol of the country's resistance to foreign power.

It should be noted that the French did eventually win the war, forcing Juarez out of Mexico City  and einstalling Austrian-born Duke Maximilian as Emperor of Mexico.

What, you didn't know there was an Emperor of Mexico? We're going to be here for a while...

Guadalajara Guide: Parque Metropolitano

Any decent city will have a sizable amount of green space. Nothing quite so unpleasant as long, dusty walks in the heat without a tree for shade or pleasant lawn for picnicking.

Guadalajara, on the whole, does pretty well in this regard. Parks large and small dot the landscape. One of these is Parque Metropolitano.

I have to say - not what I was expecting. The park feels more reminiscent of the African Veldt than a lush greenscape. Large barren patches free of grass are broken up by large shade trees.

There's no denying the trees are impressive,  But there's just not enough verdure and shade for my taste.

Viajes Mexicanos: El Distrito Federal

Mexico City, until recently the Distrito Federal and now the State of the City of Mexico, is (by some measures) the largest city in the world, the total metropolitan area containing roughly 25 million inhabitants. 

The pollution is not so bad as it once was and I had the good fortune to visit when traffic was at its lightest.  Still, on the flight out you find yourself through a brown bubble, one of Sherlock Holmes' s classic pea-soupers.

On the whole the city has a very New York-y vibe. Huge, bustling, dirty, and teeming with culture. They even have a fake Empire State Building (the Torre Latino):

 

Others sites to see:

Chapultepec Park and Castle

Mexico is the home of the only Royal Palace on the American continent, Chapultepec Castle. Home to the ill-fated Emperor Maximilian, it sits atop a large hill in the middle of the city's central park.

Anthropology Museum

Mexico City is full of museums. The largest (probably) is the Anthropology Museum, which attempts to encapsulate all of Mexico's indigenous history. Of which there is a lot, and much of it is marvelously preserved:

 

 La Casa Azul

It really is blue.

 

Despite the plaque, Frida and Diego never lived there together. Their relationship was somewhat, ah, fraught. Probably for the best they lived apart.

Murals

The muralismo movement is justly famous, with Diego Rivera and Orozco as prominent examples.  This is is Man, Creator of the of the Universe. It depicts: 

 Alebrijes

Brightly colored fantastical folk-animals, these guys can range from larger than life:

 

 to small enough to fit in your hand. They were actually invented by an artist named Pedro Linares, who conceived of them during a hallucination brought about by illness.

 

There is, of course, much more.

The Ugly American

Just in case you were thinking of finding love abroad:

How do you get this job, anyway?

One of the more common questions asked of diplomats is: how do you even become a diplomat?

The process is not as myserious as many seem to think. In short, there are two ways:

1. Be appointed by the President,

2. Take the Foreign Service Exam.

Option 1 is more straightforward, though of course you first have to be friends with the president and/or have contributed large amounts of money to his campaign. It also subjects you to months of grandstanding questions by Congresspeople who don't know or care about the issues involved and merely wish to embarrass or obstruct the Administration in whatever way they can.

Option 2 is somewhat more time-consuming. The Foreign Service test is in 3 parts: the written test, the PNQ, and the Oral Assessment.

The written portion is very similar to the SATs. Multiple-choice general knowledge test followed by an English language assessment capped off by an essay.

The PNQ is a series of short essays in which the candidate describes various times in his/her life they displayed certain key qualities of a foreign service office (leadership, integrity etc). This is done at home and is submitted online.

The last, the Oral Assessment, takes place (usually) in Washington DC and is further divided into three parts There is an interview in which you are asked a serious of questions about your life and experiences, then presented with a series of hypothetical situations to gauge your ability to think on your feet. This is followed by a group exercise with other candidates, which is designed to observe how well you interact with others. Finally there is a Case Management exercise, in which you are handed a binder of background info and asked to resolve a sticky logistical problem.

After all this, you are released to wander for a few hours while your score is tabulated.  Usually a score of 5.25 (out of 7) is the minimum passing score.

If you did well enough, you are given a provisional job letter and the background investigation begins. Once they have determined you are physically, mentally, and morally capable of SERVING YOUR COUNTRY in a highly sought after and privileged position.

THEN, you get placed on the Register - essentially a waiting list while you bide your time until a new position becomes available. Diplomats are hired in 'classes' of between 50-100 people. They usually hire about 4-5 classes a year.

At last, you get your offer letter and scramble to consolidate your life and move to DC. Then, the journey begins...

Comida Tapatia: Chilaquiles

Chilaquiles are a standard dish in Guadalajara, and almost every Mexican restaurant will have them on the menu.

Chilaquiles are corn tortillas cut into triangles and fried. They are then topped with green salsa, red salsa, or mole. This is simmered until the tortillas soften, and often garnished with cheese or cream.

To make it a more substantial meal, some form of protein - usually refried beans, eggs, chicken, or steak - is mixed in.

Maybe not the healthiest way to start your, but you can't deny how delicious it is.

Why Join the Foreign Service? Part IV

Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness.

- Mark Twain

Trolling Houses

Years ago, during one of my overseas sojourns, I read a magazine article which was devoted to interviews with the spouses (in practice, the wives) of local prominent expats - diplomats and business leaders, mainly. This article was surely meant to be sympathetic, but the wives themselves managed to confirm every negative stereotype you might have about people in their situation. These women were, without exception, spoiled, arrogant, unreasonable, and proudly ignorant, while their every complaint was tinged with racism and condescension towards the 'locals'.

As you might expect, the Foreign Service generally attracts people who are open-minded, adaptable, and relish new experiences rather than dwelling on hardship. So where are the Ugly Americans to be found?

Well it turns out they mostly hang out on a Facebook group called Trailing Houses.*

Look upon its posts, ye rational, and despair. Complaints about the free luxury housing (only two guest bedrooms!). Whining over the lack of Trader Joe's in Namibia. Demands that the State Department cater to their every whim and desire, from providing a car (and driver!) for all spouses to having an on-site veterinarian for the family pets.

This doesn't even begin to cover the airing of personal dirty laundry, the thinly-veiled racism, and the thousands upon thousands of posts which consist of nothing but questions that could easily have been answered with a three-minute google search

Mostly, though, the group acts as an endless source of validation. Any whine of self-pity is instantly approved and reinforced by dozens of do-nothing brats.

I suppose this is selection bias. Happy, well-adjusted, or stoic people don't spend a great deal of time kvetching on the internet. Still, it's sad to see people who would be miserable in any and all situations.

*The name is a pun on the old, pre-PC term for the husbands and wives of foreign service officers, 'trailing spouses'.

Viajes Mexicanos: Tequila

Yes, Tequila is a place! Like Cognac or Champagne. Only agave spirit which comes from Tequila can be labelled as such; everything else is mezcal.

Tequila, of course, is distilled from a blue-grey variety of cactus:

 Traditional tequila is made from agave harvested by hand, which is incredibly tiring work to be performing six hours a day in the desert sun.

Mexicans generally turn down their noses at the American style of drinking tequila (with lime and salt) and won't go near the brands that sell best among the gringos. Good tequila is meant to be appreciated, the same as any fine scotch or brandy.

There are generally five grades of tequila:

Plata/Oro (Silver or Gold) - Unaged. The tequila that has been bottled immediately or aged for less than two months in a neutral container.

Why have I put these two in the same category? Because they are the same thing! Gold tequila, as it is frequently sold in the US, does not exist. It is simply silver tequila that has been colored.

Reposado (rested) - Aged between two months and a year in an oak barrel.

Anejo (aged) - Stored for at least one year in an oaken barrel. Usually gold in color.

Extra anejo - Stored in oak barrels for at least three years. This is a fairly new concept, and opinion is divided over whether extra anejo tequila actually tastes better or is simply more expensive.

I still prefer a good scotch, but tequila is a fine accompaniment to seafood or anything spicy.

Tequila itself is a quaint little town which bases most of its economy on tourism and the sale of tequila (and other liquors). As one woman proudly told me, "We make the best tequila in the world here!" Yes, also the only tequila...

Still, it's charming enough:

A Trickle or a Flood?

Without getting overly political, I'd like too discuss the idea of illegal immigration.

Recently, the chattering class was aflutter over a report that roughly half a million visa holders overstayed their visas last year.

Sounds like a lot, right? Well...

Keep in mind the scale of the non-immigrant visa operation. Mission Mexico alone issue over 3 million tourist visas a year.  The dreaded visa overstays account for less than 2% of visa holders.

Of course, '500,000 visa violators walk among us!' is a pleasantly scary headline; much better than '98.5% of visa holders abide by all regulations.' Among those 1.5%, surely some are simply mistakes or are otherwise harmless; not all of those violations imply intended immigration or any other nefarious purpose.

And of course, those the most scandalized by the prospect of visa overstays have no solution whatever for how to resolve it. Their responses always seem to involve building a Fortress America and withdrawing from the international system. The US has endured illegal immigration for the past 150 years. I think we'll be OK.

The Foreign Service on Screen: 13 Hours

So apparently Michael Bay, blower-upper of things and ruiner of many a fond childhood memory, has turned his sights to the attack on the US diplomatic compound in Libya that killed four Americans:

Admittedly, I haven't seen the film. I'm not big on action movies in the first place. What I d know, however, is that the movie reinforces some of the more unfortunate misconceptions both about what happened on that day but more broadly regarding the US and its envoys abroad.

In the film, the only really good guys are the mercenaries. The diplomats, the intellectuals, and the experts are all namby-pamby effetes who are too naive and cowardly to understand the danger in Libya or react to it. Ambassador Stephens, in particular, is portrayed as preening and narcissistic, decorating his bedroom with photos of himself. If this was how Bay wanted to honor those who gave their lives for their country, he's doing it wrong.

Add to which, the movie had to recycle some of the more easily debunked myths about the attack itself, such as the CIA station chief forbidding the mercenaries from rushing to the Ambassador's aid ("Stand down!") or that there was air support less than an hour away. Both of these have been disproved even by the relentlessly partisan Republican investigations of the incident. 

You can't always preserve complete honesty in a fictional medium. Still, how sad that such a tragic even did not receive a more respectful treatment. 

Goodbye, DF

 Ah, el Distrito Federal! Capital city of Mexico, pulsing heart of the nation, by some standards the largest city in the world....is no more!

You see, Mexico's Congress has just voted to bring the city where roughly 1/6 of the population lives out of political limbo and make it a full-fledged part of the country.

Now the old DF will become officially known as 'Mexico City' and Mexico's 32nd state. The reform was largely pushed by the left-wing PRD party, which controls the city government. The measure was approved by 23 states.

Now, what about Washington DC?

Viajes Mexicanos: Guachimontones

Sure, we've all seen pyramids. But have you ever seen CIRCULAR PYRAMIDS?:

Who built them, and why? Nobody seems to know for sure. They are not burial chambers - there's nothing inside. The surrounding areas have rectangular 'courts' for playing of a lacrosse-like game which acted as their court system (the loser was not favored by the gods, and so lost the trial).

The mysteries of Mexico continue....

Why Join the Foreign Service? Part III

“To my mind, the greatest reward and luxury of travel is to be able to experience everyday things as if for the first time, to be in a position in which almost nothing is so familiar it is taken for granted.”

- Bill Bryson

Viajes Mexicanos: San Miguel de Allende

San Miguel de Allende is a picturesque little town in the mountains of Guanajuato:

 The winding, cobblestone streets can take some getting used to, and the altitude can be a challenge for those of delicate constitution.

 Still, SMdA is undeniably charming and full of character, will a village-like air. Like many Mexican cities, it is based around a central square dominated by a large cathedral:

 Over the years, the town has become home to large numbers of artists (particularly painters) and American expats. This has led to a profusion of high-end restaurants, silly-expensive real estate, souvenir shops, and art galleries:

 As a tourist site, I highly recommend it for the shopping alone. It is one of those places with few specific destinations or sights/ Simply amble through the town and enjoy it.